Series IIA Chassis up rebuild

[landylees]

Sorted out the non-returning accelerator linkage this evening, just tensioned the spring next to the throttle body a little more.

I tried re-polarising the dynamo but this didn't help with the charging. Tomorrow will check the output.

[Landie68]

Hi Howard

Noting your fuel problems, I had to resort to fitting a suction pump to my fuel lines to get fuel up to the pump. Sometimes the lift pump just doesn't like sucking the air in the fuel lines. Just a thought.
Richard

[landylees]

thanks, although fuel problems resolved with new pump and putting the old idle mixture screw back in the carb.
The engine now fires and starts immediately the starter is pressed - once this one is finished I will need to look at my Series 3 LWT as this certainly doesn't start as easily.
My next post will likely be the issues I am having with binding brakes which is the only thing stopping me from driving it out of the garage!

[landylees]

I decided to tackle the dynamo. Having stripped it down and cleaned it I managed to get 14.5v out of it on the bench spinning it with a drill. However, having refitted it to the Land Rover I still couldn't get the ignition light to go out. I disconnected it, joined the two terminals together and checked the voltage output with the engine running and it was producing 30v!! Not knowing much about dynamos, I am not sure whether I should be sourcing another dynamo or troubleshooting my control box wiring. Any ideas ?

I also removed the trolley jack from under the front diff to find it full of water, the radiator is leaking from the bottom outlet and not the hose.

So near but so far from driving it out of the garage!

[Johnsboy]

A basic check on the Dynamo is to remove the belt and wires, link both terminals together then connect them to a live and if it’s ok the dynamo will turn like a motor.
They also need polarising if it’s a new one.
This link has helped me before, it’s an agricultural site but lists every step to check.
https://www.anglo-agriparts.com/testing ... -regulator

Hope it’s understandable
Johnny

[landylees]

A basic check on the Dynamo is to remove the belt and wires, link both terminals together then connect them to a live and if it’s ok the dynamo will turn like a motor.
They also need polarising if it’s a new one.
This link has helped me before, it’s an agricultural site but lists every step to check.
https://www.anglo-agriparts.com/testing ... -regulator

Hope it’s understandable
Johnny

that looks really good, thanks!

[landylees]

Follow up question, has anyone had a radiator recored and can tell me approximately what it cost ?

[Sidders101]

£150 for a Lwt..£250 for a 101.

[landylees]

£150 for a Lwt..£250 for a 101.

thanks, that is nearly the price of a new one so will keep the old one but get another to keep me moving...I couldn't find anyone near me to do it anyway ;-(

[landylees]

Have removed radiator and dynamo today, along with the wings etc. This doesn't really feel like progress as I seem to be going in the wrong direction! At least the nuts and bolts undid easily.

The radiator has a split in the bottom just above the outlet hose which is not within my capabilities to repair, so have ordered another one along with a recon dynamo. The dynamo failed step 1 of Johnny's tests.

The top oil cooler pipe has been leaking and have discovered this is because it is not seating properly as it is at an odd angle where the pipe goes through the side of the rad panel - have bent the pipe a little more to see if I can get it to seat properly.

I took the opportunity to fit the steady bracket for the metal fan guard.

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