Hiya Rob!
I'm not sure I have any particular skill to pass on, I just zap it until it all looks solid then grind back to flush. If the crack looks like it's still there, I zap it again. I found during practicing that MIG welding new, pure, aluminium is a lot easier than welding old panels. I found that getting the area as clean as possible, and removing all the white rot, made for a much more successful weld. And welding in short bursts to stop the wire heating up, expanding, and sticking in the tip caused a lot less stoppage heartaches.
Hi Howard,
I've got a Clarke 135TE. I've inserted a Teflon liner into the torch lead, to run alongside the steel liner to make swapping back and forth easier. (The steel liner will snag the aluminium wire causing feed problems.). Unfortunately the Teflon liner has a different end fitting to the steel liner, so I ordered a second one of those, took the torch fitting off the end and fitted it to the the Teflon liner. I'm using Argon gas, 0.8mm aluminium wire and a 1.0mm tip, to help prevent the aluminium wire from sticking in the tip when heat expands it.
Regards,
As mentioned it takes a bit of practice to weld Birmabright with a MIG, but it can be done with a little practice, and patience. You will get the odd birdsnest which will annoy you when it happens, so keep the feed roller tension as light as possible to prevent it jamming up where it goes into the liner, or you'll lose a lot of wire quite quickly sorting it out.
Regards,