FFR "Fuel Starvation"
FFR "Fuel Starvation"
LR won't start! Garage says that it MAY be the fuel filter. Can these be cleaned out, and can the fuel tank be "washed out", or does it have to be removed? If a replacement filter is required, what is the best source (Garage can't source...). Similarly, best source for a 24v Relay that controls the indicators? Advice welcome!
Re: FFR "Fuel Starvation"
You'd think a garage would able to tell.
Do they mean the filter bowl on the lift pump? There isn't any other fuel filter fitted as standard on the 2 1/4 set up, unless you count the ones on the bottom of the fuel pick up pipes in the tanks, and some may have had an in-line filter fitted just before the carb. If you have the lift pump with the glass bowl on it, there is a gauze filter in these. Easier to access them from underneath to remove the gauze from the casing.
If the bowl and gauze are clean then check that the rubber sealing ring isn't perished and that the bowl's clamp is done up tight when refitted. Check all the pipe unions between the lift pump and the tanks are are done up tight. Check that there is resistance to movement on the fuel change over tap if still fitted, if it is loose it may be drawing in air past the cork gasket. Make sure it is selected to draw fuel from the tank with fuel in it If two tanks are still present. (A blow through from an airline down the fuel pipe from the tap at the lift pump will confirm which tank is selected, and clear any blockage that may be in a pipe.). Try operating the lift pump by hand to see if it draws up fuel. If not and,and needs be, remove the fuel unions and place a digit over the inlet to see if suction can be felt when the pump lever is operated, see if pressure can be felt at the outlet when operated. If not it may have a split diaphragm or a broken plunger tab/bellcrank.
If a vehicle has sat for a while a small rust hole can appear in the fuel pick up pipe awhere the air and moisture gets to it just above the fuel level, once the fuel level drops below it the engine will cut out as air gets drawn in, or it may have cracked at the top where the pipe joins the main body. Easy to remove and check. If you still have underseat fill tanks, and not civilian ones, checking the inside of the tank for cleanliness couldn't be simpler. If needs be, drain the fuel and then you can get your arm in the tank with a rag to give it a clean up.
Regards,
Do they mean the filter bowl on the lift pump? There isn't any other fuel filter fitted as standard on the 2 1/4 set up, unless you count the ones on the bottom of the fuel pick up pipes in the tanks, and some may have had an in-line filter fitted just before the carb. If you have the lift pump with the glass bowl on it, there is a gauze filter in these. Easier to access them from underneath to remove the gauze from the casing.
If the bowl and gauze are clean then check that the rubber sealing ring isn't perished and that the bowl's clamp is done up tight when refitted. Check all the pipe unions between the lift pump and the tanks are are done up tight. Check that there is resistance to movement on the fuel change over tap if still fitted, if it is loose it may be drawing in air past the cork gasket. Make sure it is selected to draw fuel from the tank with fuel in it If two tanks are still present. (A blow through from an airline down the fuel pipe from the tap at the lift pump will confirm which tank is selected, and clear any blockage that may be in a pipe.). Try operating the lift pump by hand to see if it draws up fuel. If not and,and needs be, remove the fuel unions and place a digit over the inlet to see if suction can be felt when the pump lever is operated, see if pressure can be felt at the outlet when operated. If not it may have a split diaphragm or a broken plunger tab/bellcrank.
If a vehicle has sat for a while a small rust hole can appear in the fuel pick up pipe awhere the air and moisture gets to it just above the fuel level, once the fuel level drops below it the engine will cut out as air gets drawn in, or it may have cracked at the top where the pipe joins the main body. Easy to remove and check. If you still have underseat fill tanks, and not civilian ones, checking the inside of the tank for cleanliness couldn't be simpler. If needs be, drain the fuel and then you can get your arm in the tank with a rag to give it a clean up.
Regards,
For Those That Have Had To Fight for It, Life Has Truly A Flavour The Protected Will Never Know.
'First my weapon. Then my equipment. Then myself.'
Neil.
09FM98. 1973 Ex SIII FFR Now 3.5 V8 LWT Coiler.
55HG98. 1980 SIII FFR PARA RECCE. Ex 1, 2 and 3 PARA.
Td5 90 XS.
'First my weapon. Then my equipment. Then myself.'
Neil.
09FM98. 1973 Ex SIII FFR Now 3.5 V8 LWT Coiler.
55HG98. 1980 SIII FFR PARA RECCE. Ex 1, 2 and 3 PARA.
Td5 90 XS.
Re: FFR "Fuel Starvation"
The metal
https://pablanchard.co.uk/Flasher-Unit- ... ary-579226
Regards,
The metal cased ones are hard to come by, and can be priced accordingly, but you can get the black plastic cased ones from a few places, example below.
https://pablanchard.co.uk/Flasher-Unit- ... ary-579226
Regards,
For Those That Have Had To Fight for It, Life Has Truly A Flavour The Protected Will Never Know.
'First my weapon. Then my equipment. Then myself.'
Neil.
09FM98. 1973 Ex SIII FFR Now 3.5 V8 LWT Coiler.
55HG98. 1980 SIII FFR PARA RECCE. Ex 1, 2 and 3 PARA.
Td5 90 XS.
'First my weapon. Then my equipment. Then myself.'
Neil.
09FM98. 1973 Ex SIII FFR Now 3.5 V8 LWT Coiler.
55HG98. 1980 SIII FFR PARA RECCE. Ex 1, 2 and 3 PARA.
Td5 90 XS.
Re: FFR "Fuel Starvation"
Hello,
I also had this problem (LWT not starting...)
The operating handle of the switch tap between the 2 tanks was in neutral because an unlucky heel kick had positioned this handle in the center...
Regards.
LL
I also had this problem (LWT not starting...)
The operating handle of the switch tap between the 2 tanks was in neutral because an unlucky heel kick had positioned this handle in the center...
Regards.
LL
27GJ77 - 1977 LWT SIII FFR - 1st. Royal Horse Artillery - B Battery (BAOR)
Re: FFR "Fuel Starvation"
Many thanks for all your replies, particularly that from AR4412, which was very comprehensive and most helpful.
Yes, you might think that the garage (which has now "fixed" the problem) would know about LR filters (or the lack thereof).
However, as I have found out to my cost, your "bog standard" garage doesn't know about LRs (and, in the case of my last garage, refused to work on it (computer plug-ins only!), and then there's the further complication of 24 volt and mil spec (garages can't get the parts).
It would be helpful if the site listed members / garages in their areas that could work on Lightweights (I'm in Ealing, West London - not really military LR territory!).
MR ("mrick")
Yes, you might think that the garage (which has now "fixed" the problem) would know about LR filters (or the lack thereof).
However, as I have found out to my cost, your "bog standard" garage doesn't know about LRs (and, in the case of my last garage, refused to work on it (computer plug-ins only!), and then there's the further complication of 24 volt and mil spec (garages can't get the parts).
It would be helpful if the site listed members / garages in their areas that could work on Lightweights (I'm in Ealing, West London - not really military LR territory!).
MR ("mrick")