An addition to the fleet

[removeduser185]

<r>As some of you will know, I have had a hankering for a Disco 2 for quite a while. I had a brand new work one for a few years and really loved it. I had a very limited budget and Freda allowed it only on condition that we got rid of her Freelander as she though my having 4 vehicles in retirement wasn't sensible use of the pension. She is, of course, right! So, this arrived. It has an exemplary MoT record and came with two brand new tyres in response to the advisory of their being worn on the September MoT. Which is kind, if your're selling, I think! There is no suggestion of rust on any MoT, and, from what I have seen the chassis looks good, though there is some body rust which I will have to sort out WHEN IT STOPS BLOODY RAINING! I shall enjoy fiddling with it. I had forgotten just how nice these are to drive; very smooth, quiet and, of course, with excellent visibility. The sunroof leaks (of course), it needs a replacement rear door check strap, two new rear bumper lights and a bit of fettling elsewhere, but, that suits me fine and, for £2750...

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[AR4412]

Hiya Fred! ,

I thought the sunroofs on D2's were meant to let the water in, as they nearly all do. Mastic/Seam Sealer or Tiger Seal will solve it. But, if you want to repair it properly and be able to open the sunroof again it isn't that hard to do. It depends whether it is the front or rear sunroof which is leaking as to how easy it is. It may just be blocked drain tubes, or they may have broken or come off the frame fittings.

Here's a link with some good pics of the job, and a dog.

https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/31484-le ... oof-again/

If you need replacement drain fittings for the frame a search on 'D2 sunroof leak' will bring them up. There about £50 a pair IIRC. Unblocking just requires a length off wire etc pushing down the tubes to clear the crud out. A chassis harness puller like the one below is good for the job.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/p ... ble-puller

It could be worse, on a D3 when the L/H sunroof drain leaks, and it's always the L/H one as it is inavariably the down hill side when parked, it runs straight onto the Central Junction Box/Fusebox down into the footwell where ther is a harness, and lets the gremlins get into the wiring.

A solid chassis is a good start for your new ride, that's about the only thing that kills off D2's, that or a failed autobox. May it bring you many miles of happy motoring.

Regards,

[removeduser185]

Neil, very many thanks for that, it is kind of you to go to the trouble of finding links as well. I shall certainly follow your advice just as soon as it stops raining. But, first of all, the Disco has to go into hospital! The other day I filled the tank - 95 litres. Yesterday, I was driving back from Llandovery when I noticed my rear screen fogging up with something or other all over it. I got home to find it was diesel and, furthermore, there was a snail trail 18" wide all down the hill where I had just driven and the whole back of the car and my drive was covered in diesel. Somehow or other I had had a catastrophic fuel loss. It didn't affect the running of the engine, but, when I looked at the fuel gauge it read just half - so I had lost about 40-50 litres in a few miles. There was quite a bit on the ground by my garage so, this morning I was up with detergent and hot water trying to get rid of as much as I could to keep it off the cats' and dog's paws. The rain does help though!

Anyway, the guy who sold it to me is coming to pick it up tomorrow and he will fix it. Don't suppose he'll fix my bank - 40 litres at £1.30 or so... Ah well - such is the problem with old cars - still love them, though. I have been enjoying browsing eBay looking for parts. I have some rust in the very centre of the wheel arch in the middle as you open the rear passenger-side door. My neighbour will happily weld something in , but I can't find a source of repair panels for a Disco 2. I thought there would be a lot about - floors, sills, wheelarches etc. There are some for Disco 1s but not 2s. Any ideas? I really need an IPC as well as I need a tailgate check strap - can't find one of those either!

But, my goodness, when it isn't spraying Carmarthenshire with my hard-earned diesel, it does run sweetly - a real pleasure. I had forgotten just how good Disco 2s are to drive on country roads.

More news as I get it.

[AR4412]

Hi Fred,

I'm sorry to hear that you seem to have suffered the dreaded D2 'Green Pipe Rub Through', a common enough failure. There's a fuel pipe that comes from the pump in the tank which rubs on the chassis crossmember at the front of the tank. Part Number YNI50030K is what will be needed, takes about thirty minutes to replace as you need to lift the rear carpet to access the tank cover plate. It's the cost in fuel that hurts the wallet, and cleaning up the leaked diesel thats a pain.

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-pipe- ... -8298.html

I'll look into the other bits for you next week if I don't stumble across them before.

Regards,

[AR4412]

Rear door checkstrap is ALR9290.

(Link given for image purpose only.)

https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/ ... iscovery_2

Circlip for securing it to the post on the body is BYV100000

Regards,

[removeduser185]

Neil,

You are a star. I picked up your message a few minutes ago and was able to ring the dealer who sold me the car. I cancelled his recovery vehicle for tomorrow morning and ordered the part to arrive next week. So, if the weather is good, I'll have a go at the job myself which will stop any messing about. If it's something else, then, OK, we're back to square 1 and he can come and collect it He's happy with that and will reimburse me for the part.

As for the door check strap - wow! That's a lot of money! As it happens, there's a chap selling a whole door for £30 in a town just over the hill so I'll check whether it includes the check strap and, if it does, I'll buy it!

As ever, though, I am most grateful to you.

[AR4412]

Never a problem to help out where I can mate.

If you can get the back of the vehicle up on ramps it will make it the job easier, as the pipe has to be removed and fed over the tank from underneath the car, but it isn't essential to raise the vehicle, but it does make the job easier when laying on the floor. You will see the female pipe connector on the inside of the right hand chassis rail, along with another fuel pipe, they don't make it easy to get onto to one of the push to release clips as the pipe passes through a chassis bracket so you can't move it out much. IIRC the pipe is held to the chassis in front of the tank by a couple of push fit clips.

You don't need to remove much from inside the car, just the two plastic seat hook surrounds from the floor, then pull the carpet out from under the rear strip and the side trim panels to about half way to the rear seats, then fold it up to expose the fuel pump cover plate. Remove this plate and you will see four fuel pipes in the pump, push the two tabs in on the green connector to free the pipe. If you do this first you will only need to go under the car once to remove the old pipe and replace with the new one. The random bit of black plasticky sheet with a sticky strip on it that comes with the new pipe is to wrap around the pipe to stop it rubbing on the chassis.

The carpet can be pushed back under the side panels and the rear strip easily enough with a screw driver. Just don't forget to poke the cargo rings through their holes in the carpet or you'll be swearing at yourself as you're pulling the carpet back up.

Regards,

[removeduser185]

Thanks, Neil, just... thanks.

[removeduser185]

Had a useful couple of hours this morning fiddling with the Discovery. Put a tarpaulin down, then drove it up on a pair of ramps and had a look at the rear. Removed the plate covering the fuel pump and was pleased to see the floor is in good nick. The tarpaulin was covered in dieso - perhaps the best part of a gallon. But - it was all under the front of the engine and when I crawled underneath, the rear and fuel tank were dry and the front of the chassis and engine were soaking. So, I removed the plastic engine cover - the insulation of which was drenched - and on the left-hand side of the engine there are two rubber pipes which seem to go into the block - both are clipped on to metal pipes with plastic clips. I turned the ignition on with my mate watching them and, yes, sure enough, dieso poured out - one of the pipes - the lower one of the two - the green one as Neil predicted, had come adrift. Snapped it back in place and the problem was solved! Spent rather longer clearing up the dieso and power washing the ground. I had a bit of a poke about underneath and while everything could do with a good coat of Schutz, it all seemed up together. The rear mudflap brackets were a bit dodge, but otherwise I was rather pleased. There was a recent new fuel filter, new shockers and self-levelling sensors, as well as the brand new tyres on the front. All good.

So, work still to be done includes sorting a misting headlight and trying to get the front bumper a bit straighter - the previous owner wasn't too fussy about careful parking - the bumper is pushed back about an inch and the rear bumper lights are both cracked!. I replaced a broken glovebox latch and replaced the clip holding the battery cover in place. So, a small amount of fettling already achieved, sunroofs to be done in due course and, all being well, I'll have a pretty decent vehicle.

[AR4412]

Hiya Fred! ,

Pleased to hear that the diesel is now going where it's meant to, instead of straight onto the floor.

I have had a trawl around dring the week, but have been unable to find anywhere selling a replacement panel for your rust holed one. It looks like it will have to be 'patched up' as opposed to replaced. As you said, plenty of D1 panels out there, but not a lot for the D2.

Regards,