An addition to the fleet

[removeduser185]

Hiya Fred! ,

Pleased to hear that the diesel is now going where it's meant to, instead of straight onto the floor.

I have had a trawl around during the week, but have been unable to find anywhere selling a replacement panel for your rust holed one. It looks like it will have to be 'patched up' as opposed to replaced. As you said, plenty of D1 panels out there, but not a lot for the D2.

Regards,

Hi Neil,

That's kind of you. Yesterday, though, I braved the appalling weather here and went over the mountain to Tregaron where there is a chap who has 6 D2s which he is breaking. He has offered to cut me a slice out of one of them which my neighbour, Bob, has agreed to weld in for me (if I help - which I shall). So, as soon as it is reasonably dry, I shall take a picture of the hole and send it to him so he cuts out the right bit for me. One of the great things about having put the D2 up on the ramps was being able to see just how good it actually is underneath - I'm really pleased - even the rear floor is good - but won't be if the sun roofs continue to leak, so I shall have to sort them as soon as it is dry enough. I have loads of jobs to do when it is dry enough!
Putting the car on the ramps was a bit dodge. I reversed onto them and slightly over ran them so the toes kicked up towards the running boards. But I was stuck as I needed enough revs to move the car forward again, I couldn't let it slip back any further and I had one foot on the clutch and the other on the footbrake as the handbrake has too much play in it and the wheels were on a knife edge. So I had to bend down and control the throttle with my hand while I carefully manipulated the other two pedals with my feet! Got there, though, with no further drama. I didn't fancy falling off the ramps either backwards or sideways.

[removeduser185]

Does anyone have an IPC for a D2, or know where I can find a cheap one with the Td5 engine included? The only ones I can find so far are NAS ones which have the chapter on the Td5 omitted.

I'm trying to find details of the diesel pipe which seems to run from the Fuel regulator pump to the fuel cooler? (I'm not yet sure of my way around a Td5 engine - very early days!) on the LH side of the block (as you look at the engine from the front. I want to see how the pipe is actually secured - it seems to me it comes off far too easily and it sweats fuel. I need to find a better way of ensuring it doesn't come off again, or buy a replacement.

I have, incidentally, found that Rimmers supply body panels, including the inner and outer wheelarches, but, my goodness, are Rimmers' prices high! Eye-wateringly so. It'll be a breakers for me! I'd also like to find out which bits on my version - the Landmark - which aren't included, such as powerfold mirrors, dipping interior mirror electric and heated seats and so on, can simply be added to be plug and play, or which may need additions to wiring looms, ECUs etc. I have leather seats and, according to a US forum, all leather seats come equipped with heater pads and simply require switches to make them work. I am not convinced - at least for the UK market. But, it would be nice to know.

[AR4412]

Hi Fred,

IIRC yours is an 04 model, so will have the Euro 3 engine and a three hose fuel pressure regulator. Can you let me know if your engine has a square or round fuel cooler, and I will get you the part number for the hose if there is one, as they may be different. your engine should have the round fuel cooler. You can 'tighten up' the plastic clips inside by pulling them inwards slightly with a pick/screwdriver, or you can slide a couple of rubber O-rings onto the pipe on the regulator/cooler which will hold the hose clip tighter against the flare in the pipe. Done this to a couple at work.

Regards,

[AR4412]

Hi Fred,

I forgot to add in my previous post to make sure that the plastic surround you push in to release the pipe from the cooler has come all the way back out. If it hasn't the pipe won't be secured on the cooler tube as the clips inside will stay partially retracted.

Anyway. As I had your VRN in one of the pics you sent me, I could look up vehicle specific parts for your D2 to find out what cooler you should have etc.... As I feared, it looks like the fuel pipe from the regulator to the cooler is not available separately. Do not fear my good man, as I have a brand new one taken off of a regulator that you can have. PM me your address and I'll get it in the post to you, in case you can't get yours to stay on.

This link below shows the fuel regulator and pipework, and advanced factors is a good place to look for part numbers.

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/td5-f ... 1025-c.asp

The pipe I have is the one pointing down at roughly 5 o'clock.

Regards,

[AR4412]

Does anyone have an IPC for a D2, or know where I can find a cheap one with the Td5 engine included? The only ones I can find so far are NAS ones which have the chapter on the Td5 omitted.

I haven't had a look around for a D2 TD5 parts list on the web, but will look when I get the chance. The Advanced Factors link above is quite good for digging out part numbers.

I'd also like to find out which bits on my version - the Landmark - which aren't included, such as powerfold mirrors, dipping interior mirror electric and heated seats and so on, can simply be added to be plug and play, or which may need additions to wiring looms, ECUs etc. I have leather seats and, according to a US forum, all leather seats come equipped with heater pads and simply require switches to make them work. I am not convinced - at least for the UK market. But, it would be nice to know.

The main wiring for the ancilliaries not fitted to your vehicles spec is already in the loom IIRC. You will just need to source the switches/mirrors/seat heater pads/and possibly the flyleads from the main harness to the seat heater pad leads. You can buy the seat heater pads and 'flyleads' as separate items and fit them into your existing seats if you don't fancy lashing out for another set of seats. I would need to check to see if the mirror wiring you would require is already in the door harnesses of your vehicle. If any ancilliaries are fitted, the car needs programming to reconfigure the BCU (Body Control Unit) to tell it it now has these bits fitted for them to work, as the BCU controls pretty much everything on a D2. It should only take about ten minutes to reprograme the car.

Regards,

[removeduser185]

I was reading a bit about the BCU last night - as you say, it does seem to have its finger in every pie! I will try and get a photo of the FPR to fuel cooler pipe when I have a moment. Needless to say, it has rained here all day ... again! Using the Discovery to take doggo for a walk this morning meant I had a damp shoulder and, as I have sealed the sunroofs, temporarily - I shall sort them out in the spring, it must be the holes for the roof bars which are leaking - at least at the front. Probably at the back it will be the alpine windows as well. I do love Land Rovers, but, honestly, some of their ways of doing things do leave one wondering.
But, as I also enjoy fiddling, I shouldn't complain!

As ever, I am most grateful to you, Neil, for your encouragement and advice. I shall take it and, as time goes on, I have every confidence that I'll have a really good, all singing all dancing D2. And I must say, I do enjoy driving it. It has a brilliant driving position, though there is much less room behind the front seats than I remember.

[AR4412]

Not the best pic, but this is the pipe. Overall length about 40cm.

thumbnail_IMG_20191031_204717.jpg (14.37 KiB) Viewed 3319 times

Regards,

[removeduser185]

Yes, I think that's the one - certainly it has a similar plastic clip on the end. I will have a look tomorrow in the daylight.

[removeduser185]

A pleasant day in the garage and it is nice to see it covered in car parts again! I haven't had much time to devote to cars while I have been busy with the shepherd's hut, but now that is finished my thoughts are turning to the garage once more. Basically, I want to get the Discovery up to scratch - so that everything works properly and it is reliable. It is a great joy to drive anyway, so that isn't an issue, but I want to fit electric seats in it. For two reasons: firstly, they have heaters which are nice in the winter and secondly, they have vertical adjustment which the manual ones don't and, as my wife and I are very different sizes, that will make things easier. So I toddled off and bought a set of electric seats from a breaker nearby and, today, I spent a while starting to swap them over. Most of the electrics are in place, except for the fly leads for the heated seats which, unfortunately, were cut by the breaker and don't exist on my car. So, I shall have to find a pair of those - shouldn't be too difficult.

I have also got hold of an original radio as the aftermarket one fitted was cheap and nasty as well as not working properly. That cost me £20, which is pretty reasonable, I think. It lacked a code, but that was available on line (though for £12), but I got it back in 10 minutes, which is pretty reasonable. It does sound good and also powers the 6-CD player which was under the driver's seat and I didn't know was there!

I have a new pair of galvanised rear mudflap brackets as they rust through in minutes. One is missing on my car and the other badly rusted. £10 secured a pair of mudflaps for them, so that will be the next job.

I am slightly concerned that the wastegate actuator is seized as I can't get any movement out of it and, sometimes going up hill it is a bit short of breath. Shouldn't be too difficult to sort if only I can get the heat shield off the manifold. It has one bolt screwed into the manifold itself which is cast iron and hot, so that's not going anywhere in a hurry!

Other jobs include replacing blown bulbs and the cracked rear bumper lights and dried out and re-sealed the O/S headlight which was very misty.
and I have also replaced the leaking front camshaft oil seal - again, a common issue, but it is made of plastic and also serves as a lid for a pot of cocoa

Still to do will be getting the sunroofs working and leak free - they're currently taped up to stop them leaking, but I'll need some finer weather for that job.

I'll call it a day there as the cat has just arrived on my laptop. Tomorrow, I'll do some photos.

[AR4412]

Hiya Fred! ,

Seems like your busying yourself with the D2.

I am slightly concerned that the wastegate actuator is seized as I can't get any movement out of it and, sometimes going up hill it is a bit short of breath. Shouldn't be too difficult to sort if only I can get the heat shield off the manifold. It has one bolt screwed into the manifold itself which is cast iron and hot, so that's not going anywhere in a hurry!

You can sometimes get the actuator to move by gripping the rod with a pair of mole grips and tapping the with the trusty hammer, but it is easier to move the wastegate itself with an adjstable spanner once the heatshield is out of the way. A six sided 10mm socket is the best bet to get on the bolt, as a twelve sided socket, if not on straight, can round off the bolt head. There's not much room around the back of the turbo on a D2 to work with. If all else fails, drill out the two rivets facing you that hold the bracket and grind away the two on the back face of the heatshield. This will give you better access to the bolt. If you can then get the bracket off you can pop rivet it back to the heatshield off the car, if not, just put the two rivets facing the wing back in once the top two bolts are back in the shield.

If the wastegate frees off and the power still seems down, read on.....

The wastegate modulators can give problems, but not that common a fault. A split modulator hose can give wastegate/boost problems. There's a bit on the modulator in the link below.

https://www.discotd5.com/td5-tuning/was ... -operation

A quick 'rule out' is to take the modulator out of the system, block off the hose coming from the inlet pipe, and run a hose straight from the turbo outlet pipe to the wastegate actuator and road test. The Defender doesn't have the modulator, just a hose from the outlet pipe to the actuator.

A sticking/stuck EGR valve can cause power issues, just rip it out and fit a blanking kit if unsure of it's serviceability.

The most common Td5 fault is a failed MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, aftermarket ones are poo, and originals are expensive. Without diagnostics to read the airflow, just unplug it and road test. If the power is back up, that's the problem. Unplugging it just puts the car into default mapping and won't cause any problems. My Defender is actually more fuel efficient with an unplugged failed MAF sensor.

Hopefully you'll sort out the seats without to much drama.

Regards,