Hi all.
Any chance someone can tell me what multimeter voltage readings you get on the white to W1, brown yellow to C2 and brown blue to C1.
I get the full 12v into W1, my relay makes the clicking sound and there is no resistance between C2 and C1... But the volts coming out of C1 and C2 are very low... Like 1.6 if that.
How can this be enough to power the headlights?
Thanks all.
Auxiliary relay multimeter readings
Re: Auxiliary relay multimeter readings
Hi Alex,
The White wire at W1 should have battery voltage present at the wire with the ignition on.
Thw Brown/Yellow wire at C2 should have a permanet battery voltage present when the six way lighting switch is in the off position.
The outut teminal C1 should have battery voltage with the ignition on.
Some links to the system wiring.
http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk ... detail.jpg
http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk ... iagram.jpg
http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk ... elaysA.jpg
Either carry out a temporary IR system bypass described in the link to see if that brings your headlights back. Or check for battery voltage on the Brown wire at the Infra Red relay (power in), and battery voltage at the the Brown/Purple wire (power out) on the Infra Red relay and six way switch. Battery volatage on the Brown/Yellow wire at the six way switch and at the fuse box with the six way switch in the off position. With the six way switch in the headlights on position, you should have battery voltage at the Blue/Black wire at the six way switch, and at T5 (Blue/black wire), on the IR switch input and T1 switch output, (Blue wire). If you have voltage at W1, (Blue/Orange wire.) on the IR relay with the IR switch in the off position, or power in but not out of the switch, it may be that the switch has shorted out inside causing the loss of headlights.
I think that's right. Good luck.
Regards,
The White wire at W1 should have battery voltage present at the wire with the ignition on.
Thw Brown/Yellow wire at C2 should have a permanet battery voltage present when the six way lighting switch is in the off position.
The outut teminal C1 should have battery voltage with the ignition on.
Some links to the system wiring.
http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk ... detail.jpg
http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk ... iagram.jpg
http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk ... elaysA.jpg
Either carry out a temporary IR system bypass described in the link to see if that brings your headlights back. Or check for battery voltage on the Brown wire at the Infra Red relay (power in), and battery voltage at the the Brown/Purple wire (power out) on the Infra Red relay and six way switch. Battery volatage on the Brown/Yellow wire at the six way switch and at the fuse box with the six way switch in the off position. With the six way switch in the headlights on position, you should have battery voltage at the Blue/Black wire at the six way switch, and at T5 (Blue/black wire), on the IR switch input and T1 switch output, (Blue wire). If you have voltage at W1, (Blue/Orange wire.) on the IR relay with the IR switch in the off position, or power in but not out of the switch, it may be that the switch has shorted out inside causing the loss of headlights.
I think that's right. Good luck.
Regards,
For Those That Have Had To Fight for It, Life Has Truly A Flavour The Protected Will Never Know.
'First my weapon. Then my equipment. Then myself.'
Neil.
09FM98. 1973 Ex SIII FFR Now 3.5 V8 LWT Coiler.
55HG98. 1980 SIII FFR PARA RECCE. Ex 1, 2 and 3 PARA.
Td5 90 XS.
'First my weapon. Then my equipment. Then myself.'
Neil.
09FM98. 1973 Ex SIII FFR Now 3.5 V8 LWT Coiler.
55HG98. 1980 SIII FFR PARA RECCE. Ex 1, 2 and 3 PARA.
Td5 90 XS.
Re: Auxiliary relay multimeter readings
Thanks Neil.
I'll try all of this. I did just check brown/yellow with the 6-way in the off position and I get full power (and W1). So that is positive.
Here is another post in Problems that I posted about a switch I have which is a civilian headlights switch... Not an IR switch. Is this something I should wire up? Does it replace the IR switch when IR is not needed?
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8452
I'll try all of this. I did just check brown/yellow with the 6-way in the off position and I get full power (and W1). So that is positive.
Here is another post in Problems that I posted about a switch I have which is a civilian headlights switch... Not an IR switch. Is this something I should wire up? Does it replace the IR switch when IR is not needed?
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8452
Re: Auxiliary relay multimeter readings
To rule out an IR switch problem, or take that switch out of the circuit in your case, remove the Blue wire, and the Blue/black wires, and join them together to bypass the switch and this will give you normal headlight functions.
Regards,
Regards,
For Those That Have Had To Fight for It, Life Has Truly A Flavour The Protected Will Never Know.
'First my weapon. Then my equipment. Then myself.'
Neil.
09FM98. 1973 Ex SIII FFR Now 3.5 V8 LWT Coiler.
55HG98. 1980 SIII FFR PARA RECCE. Ex 1, 2 and 3 PARA.
Td5 90 XS.
'First my weapon. Then my equipment. Then myself.'
Neil.
09FM98. 1973 Ex SIII FFR Now 3.5 V8 LWT Coiler.
55HG98. 1980 SIII FFR PARA RECCE. Ex 1, 2 and 3 PARA.
Td5 90 XS.
Re: Auxiliary relay multimeter readings
I can't tell you how helpful this was Neil.
The blue/black had no power when the headlights were selected and I swapped the 6-way switch for a spare I have and I now get full battery to the headlights. Thanks so much for the advice.
Now on to solve the turn lights that do not flash.
Thanks again.
The blue/black had no power when the headlights were selected and I swapped the 6-way switch for a spare I have and I now get full battery to the headlights. Thanks so much for the advice.
Now on to solve the turn lights that do not flash.
Thanks again.
Re: Auxiliary relay multimeter readings
I will check this later. But think I probably sorted it with your previous advice
Re: Auxiliary relay multimeter readings
Hi Neil.
Wondering if you have any top tips on the following issues I am having...
1. The hazard switch (button on mine) has worked twice for me and then stopped. Last night it mysteriously lit up (it did not pulse but was lot continuously when in the sticking out or on position) and both my indicators at the rear were solidly on as well. I don't have bulbs in the front ones yet, but they would probably have been on as well. Then, as I said, they stopped working. The switch is getting power and the bulb is not blown.
2. The indicators, turn lights do not work when I select right or left on the stalk. Probably related to the problem above.
3. Fog lights... How on earth do I get them to work?! I have no fog relay, the red/blue wires that I believe go into the relay are just joined together with a double male connector in between the two female ends. If I pull out the fog switch to turn them on, nothing happens and I am not getting significant power to this switch.
4. Weirdly the tail lights / brake warning lights that I had working a couple of days ago when I pressed the brake pedal stopped working. I adjusted the brake switch and everything to work at a light press of the pedal. odd
One triumph was getting the headlights to work on full beam, dip and flash. I also have the side lights working and at least seeing the rear indicators light up means they are probably wired correctly.
Any tips much welcomed.
Thanks
Alex
Wondering if you have any top tips on the following issues I am having...
1. The hazard switch (button on mine) has worked twice for me and then stopped. Last night it mysteriously lit up (it did not pulse but was lot continuously when in the sticking out or on position) and both my indicators at the rear were solidly on as well. I don't have bulbs in the front ones yet, but they would probably have been on as well. Then, as I said, they stopped working. The switch is getting power and the bulb is not blown.
2. The indicators, turn lights do not work when I select right or left on the stalk. Probably related to the problem above.
3. Fog lights... How on earth do I get them to work?! I have no fog relay, the red/blue wires that I believe go into the relay are just joined together with a double male connector in between the two female ends. If I pull out the fog switch to turn them on, nothing happens and I am not getting significant power to this switch.
4. Weirdly the tail lights / brake warning lights that I had working a couple of days ago when I pressed the brake pedal stopped working. I adjusted the brake switch and everything to work at a light press of the pedal. odd
One triumph was getting the headlights to work on full beam, dip and flash. I also have the side lights working and at least seeing the rear indicators light up means they are probably wired correctly.
Any tips much welcomed.
Thanks
Alex
Re: Auxiliary relay multimeter readings
Hi Alex,
The fact that you have working headlights should rule out the IR switch/Relay as being the cause of the Indicator/Hazard fault. My initial suspect would be the relay or it's earth, but check that you have power at the Hazard Switch wires, Brown/Green permanent live, and Brown/Blue with the ignition on, and an output to the relay on the Light Green/Pink wire when the Hazard switch is off. When the switch is on, the output should be on the Green/Light Green wire to the relay. The feed out from the relay in both cases is on the Light Green/Brown wire.
http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk ... 20NewB.jpg
The foglights should be wired in throught a relay, it seems from your desciption that a bypass may have been attempted in the past.
http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk ... itNewA.jpg
The Brake Light Switch is fed from the same fuse as the Hazard light Switch, so if no power at the switch, which gets it's supply from the IR Relay via the six way lighting switch. Check for power at the Brown/Yellow wires at the rear of the fusebox. If no power work back to the six way switch,(Brown/Yellow power out to fusebox, Brown/Purple power in from the IR Relay), to the IR Relay.
Regards,
The fact that you have working headlights should rule out the IR switch/Relay as being the cause of the Indicator/Hazard fault. My initial suspect would be the relay or it's earth, but check that you have power at the Hazard Switch wires, Brown/Green permanent live, and Brown/Blue with the ignition on, and an output to the relay on the Light Green/Pink wire when the Hazard switch is off. When the switch is on, the output should be on the Green/Light Green wire to the relay. The feed out from the relay in both cases is on the Light Green/Brown wire.
http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk ... 20NewB.jpg
The foglights should be wired in throught a relay, it seems from your desciption that a bypass may have been attempted in the past.
http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk ... itNewA.jpg
The Brake Light Switch is fed from the same fuse as the Hazard light Switch, so if no power at the switch, which gets it's supply from the IR Relay via the six way lighting switch. Check for power at the Brown/Yellow wires at the rear of the fusebox. If no power work back to the six way switch,(Brown/Yellow power out to fusebox, Brown/Purple power in from the IR Relay), to the IR Relay.
Regards,
For Those That Have Had To Fight for It, Life Has Truly A Flavour The Protected Will Never Know.
'First my weapon. Then my equipment. Then myself.'
Neil.
09FM98. 1973 Ex SIII FFR Now 3.5 V8 LWT Coiler.
55HG98. 1980 SIII FFR PARA RECCE. Ex 1, 2 and 3 PARA.
Td5 90 XS.
'First my weapon. Then my equipment. Then myself.'
Neil.
09FM98. 1973 Ex SIII FFR Now 3.5 V8 LWT Coiler.
55HG98. 1980 SIII FFR PARA RECCE. Ex 1, 2 and 3 PARA.
Td5 90 XS.
Re: Auxiliary relay multimeter readings
Thanks Neil. I'm excited to try this out later. Thanks a bunch for taking the time. These explanations have those little tips that the "what's connected to what" guide does not quite capture.
Many thanks
Many thanks
Re: Auxiliary relay multimeter readings
Hi Neil.
I checked the hazard switch and I recorded battery power at all the right connections. However, the red button does not pulse or come on. I unscrewed the red plastic lens and removed the bulb. The bulb is fine. I can't seem to get any voltage reading from the bulb terminals. The little brass spring nor brass flap on the side wall are not showing a reading on or off.
But I have seen the light come on twice, so I know it works.... Is there a connection that makes the bulb come on and off?
The Fog lights seem to be working, which is great. I'll check the brake switch later when it is dark.
I checked the hazard switch and I recorded battery power at all the right connections. However, the red button does not pulse or come on. I unscrewed the red plastic lens and removed the bulb. The bulb is fine. I can't seem to get any voltage reading from the bulb terminals. The little brass spring nor brass flap on the side wall are not showing a reading on or off.
But I have seen the light come on twice, so I know it works.... Is there a connection that makes the bulb come on and off?
The Fog lights seem to be working, which is great. I'll check the brake switch later when it is dark.