42FG92 Rebuild

[07BE16]

As previously mentioned in my introduction post I have purchased 42FG92 as a long term rebuild project, inspired by some of the stunning work shared on the forum.
Today I managed to get my first good look at it and started to make a list of all the missing /' beyond redemption' parts.
Chassis number is 236 01121A clearly visible on the front RH spring hanger.
Gearbox is 236 01110 which I assume is original?
Engine is 253 27568 - can anybody suggest the origin of this?
The bulkhead appears to be the remains of a Series 3 with no fuel change over tap hole and the oil cooler has been removed.

I plan to return to as close as original as possible I believe that I will need the following to change the engine to military spec;
Sump to suit the oil cooler fitment, timing cover, water pump, fan pulley and 8 blade fan. - Is there anything else?

I will post photographs when I get started!

Thanks

[landylees]

if you look on this website you will see that 253 is a non military Series 2a engine, 236 is IIA Lightweight

http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/engno.htm#:~ ... ck)%20side.

The diagram below should help you as parts of mine were missing, I have the part numbers somewhere - not all the pipes are available. You don't need the dash panel.

oil_cooler.jpg (66.61 KiB) Viewed 2322 times

[Loulou]

Hi,

As Landylees points out, some parts are not / no longer available for the oil cooling circuit, or at a prohibitive price for a piece of pipe.

I was able to have new pipes manufactured to measure and find the corresponding fittings in a company of maintenance and repair of hydraulic cicuits of buldozer and excavator for public works.
When you arrive at their place, the guys from the workshops are delighted to help you, it changes them a bit from the usual work… and everyone is happy.

Regards.

Looloo

[07BE16]

Having spent many months gathering parts and almost finishing my Sankey Mk 1 trailer I have actual made a start on the LWT.
The trailer was fairly complete but need a couple of end panels fabricating. Having made a few small panels in the past I thought I would give it a go, the tooling for X pressings was made using High Density Fibreboard (Laminate flooring) and pressed using a frame and a bottle jack.

trailer.jpg (60.6 KiB) Viewed 2128 times

Trailer 1.JPG (274.44 KiB) Viewed 2128 times

Trailer 2.JPG (253.16 KiB) Viewed 2128 times

Trailer 3.JPG (215.75 KiB) Viewed 2128 times

My next post will include 42FG92!

[07BE16]

As promised more on the Lightweight.

LWT 1.JPG (221.54 KiB) Viewed 2125 times

Currently it is stored in a friends factory unit, the plan being to bring a bit back home at a time to restore. Over the last year I have been buying spares and refurbishing small items but the tine has come to start on the actual vehicle. I decided the grille would be my starting point and having stripped all of the parts I was left with the bare shell in need of 2 headlight panels which are already in my stock pile, the frame was also looking a little moth eaten in places and will need to be replaced. (Note unorthodox horn placement)

LWT 3.JPG (459.81 KiB) Viewed 2125 times

Before I unzip the spot welds holding the headlamp panels in place I thought it would be best to make a jig to keep the alignment

LWT 4.JPG (286.71 KiB) Viewed 2125 times

LWT 5.JPG (269.62 KiB) Viewed 2125 times

One thing I noticed was that the top surface of the panel is actually curved the centre section being flat and the outer edges being slightly lower (or at least mine is)

This will be slow progress hoping to get the panel stripped ready to be shot blast and new framework fabricated in the New Year.

[AR4412]

Hi Richard,

I like your home made press and tooling for the cross pressings in the trailer panels.

The radiator panel does indeed angle down from the inner edge of the central angle iron of the framework to the outer top corners. Hopefully you won't have to replace too much of the original frame once the shot blaster of truth has finished cleaning it up. (Or making it disappear if you're really unlucky and it's properly rusting away.).

Regards,

[chipbury]

Some nice work there.

I would say that your gearbox is original as the number is close to the chassis number.

Have you checked the axle serial numbers? On my 2A the chassis and axle serial numbers are all 236008xx.

To be fair so many parts were swapped around by the army that it's difficult to say what was original (triggers broom springs to mind!).

Cheers,

Chris

[Ridgy]

Really interested to see your home made panel press idea. It's something I'd been thinking about a while back in the context of some unobtainable bits for my 51 year old yamaha. I had no idea of the forces involved and whether wood, being soft enough to work with a chisel or router, would stand up to it. Now I can see it does! Out of interest, what sort of tonnage jack have you got there?

Cheers

Steve

[07BE16]

Steve,
The bottle jack is 4 Tonne and it managed to put the 10mm deep swages into the 1mm steel ok. I have used MDF as tooling in the past but high density is better. (I managed to by a sheet in the B+Q offcuts section). As you can see I backed the wooden male former with a piece of 10mm plate to spread the load, the nails visible sticking up out of the female part of the tool align with the holes in the steel plate and in the steel 'blank' to ensure the 2 halves of the tool are aligned before pressing. There was no form in the female part of the tool.
As per this picture I effectively pressed each 'leg' of the X separately with the jack and extra steel blocks aligned with the 'leg', the frame was 100 x 50 x 8mm U Channel and noticeably deflected under load, I have since acquired a fly-press for my next attempts.

trailer 5.JPG (209.84 KiB) Viewed 2094 times

The resultant swages are a little shallower than the original so if I was doing it again I would make the tool a little deeper to allow of spring back, however I think the look ok.

Trailer 6 (2).JPG (350.48 KiB) Viewed 2094 times

trailer 7.JPG (299.15 KiB) Viewed 2094 times

Richard

[Ridgy]

Brilliant, thanks for the info Richard and good suggestion about going slightly over depth to allow for rebound.

Cheers

Steve