Hinged rear number plate catch and striker.

[VictorLymbery]

'Evening all,
I have just finished fabricating a new hinged number plate. I used a piece of steel sheet cut to the dimensions shown in the tailgate section of http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk.
I got a pair of vent hinges and pins from the internet and pop-riveted them on where the original uses spot welds. It works well and I am very pleased with the result. The lamp is the original from the vehicle. There is a lot of info on this site on how it is wired and I am confident on doing this.
Now for the problem! I have a catch and striker on order, but I don't really have a good idea how they should be fitted. The website I am using for reference doesn't have them fitted and the folded metal mount they show is damaged/missing.
I am sure I could easily fold up a new mount and pop-rivet to the hinged flap, but I don't know its dimensions, or which one of the catch or striker fits to the tailgate or the flap.
If anyone is willing to let me know or better still, put up a pic of the underside of their number plate flap, I would be very grateful.
Many thanks,
Victor

[AR4412]

Hi Victor,

Here's a drawing I knocked up many years ago of the dimentions of a numberplate holder, which shows the bit you're interested in.

Number Plate Holder.jpg (71.21 KiB) Viewed 1615 times

I hope it is of help to you.

Regards,

[VictorLymbery]

That's brilliant, many thanks.
Am I correct in that the male striker part of the catch goes into the number plate support and the female bit goes into the tailgate? I am sure that if the two parts have different sizes, it will be obvious, but they are still in transit and I haven't received them yet.
Thanks again,
Victor

[Pifco]

Hi Victor,

Funnily enough I made a numberplate flap last week. After digging around on the forum I found Neil's drawing and used that to make one from the old floor removed from the lightweight and some hinges cut from a spare vent flap. These are riveted using countersunk rivets. I also refurbed the lamp which isn't a Lucas but is stamped 'Made in England' so worth saving.
I folded up the catch holder in the vice using a piece of scrap Birmabright and I'll fix this with rivets when my catch and socket arrive in my next order from Blanchards. I think it will line up with Neil's dimensions, but would rather check it works nicely when on the tailgate before drilling and riveting as my 6mm square hole isn't perfect.
Hope the attached photos help.

Regards,
Pete

number_plate_flap_front.jpeg (143.92 KiB) Viewed 1592 times

[AR4412]

I hope the plate I measured is correct, or I'll have a lot of angry forummers after me if nothing lines up.

Regards,

[Pifco]

I hope the plate I measured is correct, or I'll have a lot of angry forummers after me if nothing lines up.

It looks spot on to me.

Does anyone know the part number for the grommets on the lower tailboard that the number plate lamp wires pass through?

Regards,
Pete

[fv1620]

Check that your number plate lamp is fused. Originally there was no fuse for it!

Hopefully one has been added in accordance with EMER WHEELED VEHICLES Q 027/13 Mod instruction No.4

[Pifco]

Thanks Clive, does the EMER you refer to specify where the fuse should be fitted (presumably in-line?) and what amp rating?
I was thinking of a waterproof fuse holder, possibly marine if there isn’t a specific military item.

Pete

[fv1620]

Pete strictly speaking this mod was originally intended for LtWts in NI where the tailboard was removed which left an unfused wire. The EMER on blue paper indicated it was for immediate attention.

The fuse was fitted in an in-line fuse holder with 5cm leads each end once the feed connector is accessed after removing the LH rear tool box. Obviously the number plate feed could simply be removed here but it would be tedious to re-instate the supply if operational requirements changed. I think the inclusion of a fuse seems like a good idea irrespective of the NI requirement.

The NSN quoted seems to relate to a 5A fuse glass or ceramic, but ceramic is specified as it is more robust. Glass is fragile & the end caps are often unreliable.

[Pifco]

Thank you Clive, that’s very helpful information and advice. Definitely a good idea to fit a fuse on that feed.

Pete