19HF27

[AR4412]

Hiya Bob! ,

Good to see all the bolts came out okay.

I think the maximum torque you can safely apply depends on the hardness of the bolt and it's constuction/surface treatment, but 18 lbf.ft sounds about right as a maximum. I would need to do some digging to be sure. I think the bolts in mine were marked with an 'S' for their hardness. I never really use a torque wrench on non critical bolts like these, I tend to use my calibrated elbow and go by feel. Or, I'll tighten the bolt up until it shears, and then back it off two flats.

The long bolts on mine were all 3 1/4", I'm sure the left one needs to be a bit longer as the pump casing is thicker here. It had had a replacement pump fitted as evidenced by it being rusty and unpainted compared to the rest of the engine. The depth of the holes from the mating face through the timing chest into the block are all 3" and the timing case is 2" thick, so the bolts were sufficiently long enough to do the job. All the short bolts were 1 1/4" on my engine.

I tend to use Hylomar on all gaskets, even where LR advise grease in their publications, just the way I was taught in training.

Regards,

[Bob Fell]

Hiya Neil
Thanks mate, brilliant info as ever. My bolts are 3 1/4" long except for one which is 3", why I haven't a clue. As said, one bolt is pretty manky so I've ordered 4 genuine new ones from PAB for the sake of a few quid. Mine are marked with an S as yours for hardness. Anyway, I'm forgetting about torque settings, like you said , they're non-critical and LR never stated any. Gasket wise, I usually grease as per LR but I do have Blue Hylomar so might try it. All in all I'm in a happy place now with getting it all put back together at the w/e.
Cheers,
Bob

[Bob Fell]

Update and advice on fitting hoses.
Been doing all the prep work for fitting the new water pump, all fasteners cleaned up or replaced and heavily copper greased, the pump has had 3 coats of paint over the week.
Thinking about the new hoses, they are tight obviously so to fit them to the ports I'm planning to soften them with hot water but how about a bit of silicone grease to help ease them on ??
I'm planning on fitting the new pump with the hoses attached as that's how I took the old one off, it should certainly prevent an awful lot of pain trying to fit the bypass hose later having had the experience of that with my 2A years ago.
Here's a pic of todays limited progress, its been too cold to do anything else - must get a space heater.

20210306_124517.jpg (2.67 MiB) Viewed 1447 times

Regards
Bob

[AR4412]

Hiya Bob! ,

Good to see you're at the refitting stage.

I've resorted to placing the ends of hoses into a cup of boiled water to soften them prior to fitting, the last one being the top hose on a TDV8 last week as it was a particularly tight fit to the thermostat housing with limited access. I've also sprayed the inside of an EGR coolant hose with white grease this week to get it to fit over the EGR's tube.

Regards,

[Bob Fell]

Hiya Neil
The hot water did the trick, the bypass hose slipped on a treat.
Anyway, had a good couple of hours in the sun, the end result being one new pump fitted which gives me plenty of time to put everything else back tomorrow.

20210307_130901.jpg (2.66 MiB) Viewed 1398 times

Regards
Bob

[Loulou]

Hello Gentlemen,

I arrive a little late, but strong constraints mean that I can only follow your adventures every other week.

For the screws, I naturally chose a good quality, but not too "hard" and therefore brittle so as not to fart in the cast iron of the engine block.

I systematically use a torque wrench and especially for the various "lids" in order to respect the flatness of the whole. In addition, I do not have the experience of correct tightening to the "blue vein of the arm", so be careful.

I think a joint paste is useful in order to "fill / feed" the joint, but in very small quantities.

For the various pipes that are a little tight, a tiny drop of dishwashing product helps me a lot.
Well done for the hot water trick, I didn't know about it.

When I rebuilt my engine, I sent in it a generous high pressure steam wash in the various cooling ducts, I was very surprised at the volume of waste and grime that came out ...

Att. Bob,
It's nice to see a great job with good preparation up front, well done.

In view of your photo, it is therefore possible to replace a water pump without having to dismantle the radiator, but only the plastic duct (577342) behind…?
The fan is easily disassembled? Is there room for spanners?

Good Sunday to all

Looloo

577342.png (28.72 KiB) Viewed 1392 times

[AR4412]

That beats what I've got planned for tomorrow Bob. I've got to finish off putting in the new front to rear brake pipes on a Range Rover ready for an MOT retest, and then strip out a Freelander 1 dash, so I can swap it's leaking heater matrix.

Don't fancy swapping do you mate?

Regards,

[Loulou]

Ho no-no dear sir,

No desire to exchange medieval mechanics, simple and direct for a "modern" mechanism where you consume a lot of time, with all these plastics that break at the slightest dismantling, oh no…!

Good luck for this next start of the week

LL

[Bob Fell]

That beats what I've got planned for tomorrow Bob. I've got to finish off putting in the new front to rear brake pipes on a Range Rover ready for an MOT retest, and then strip out a Freelander 1 dash, so I can swap it's leaking heater matrix.

Don't fancy swapping do you mate?

Regards,

Hiya Neil
Bit late in the day but sorry mate, decided to take a rain check on that one
Anyway, mission accomplished, all back together and running with no leaks , new belts fitted too, she runs like dream, quiet too, the old pump had been noisy these last 12 months on and off and weeping coolant slightly from the weep hole.
Back to work and reality tomorrow.
Thanks for all your advice it has made for an easy task I was dreading slightly not having changed one before.
Best,
Bob

[Bob Fell]

Att. Bob,
It's nice to see a great job with good preparation up front, well done.

In view of your photo, it is therefore possible to replace a water pump without having to dismantle the radiator, but only the plastic duct (577342) behind…?
The fan is easily disassembled? Is there room for spanners?

Good Sunday to all

Looloo

577342.png

Hi Loulou,

In answer to your question, yes.
The radiator stays in, slacken all the belts off, push the cowl back onto the engine and remove the fan then remove the cowl and carry on with the rest. Assembly is reverse, fit the belts loose the the cowl pushed back as before, fit the fan - must be careful here to get the fixing holes aligned, it can be a bit of a pain. See pics on assembling;

20210308_112523.jpg (2.77 MiB) Viewed 1351 times

20210308_112814.jpg (2.81 MiB) Viewed 1351 times

Again, thank you for all your advice.
Regards
Bob