What have I got...a GS or not?

[Tel834]

Hello, new to the forum also relatively new to the world of Series Land Rovers. I have a 1973 Lightweight which bore the Army registration number 46FL34. In the book The Half Ton Military Land Rover by Mark.J.Cook this registration number is listed on page 183 as part of the registration range 45FL36 to 51FL39, type GS, contract number WV10787 and census code 1620-0778. This all fits in with what is found on the vehicle itself and on supporting paperwork. That is all until you opened the bonnet. When I first took ownership there was a large 24volt generator attached to the engine, screened cable from the generator to what I believe is some sort of radio equipment mounted in the rear of the vehicle. According to documentation everything points to this vehicle being a GS but can anyone tell me why It has the 24v system. Am I correct in thinking all GS would be 12v and all FFR 24v.

[removeduser185]

The thing is, these vehicles have been in civilian hands for far longer than they were ever in the military and, being basically large Meccano sets, altering them to suit individual needs is a simple matter. All FFRs were 24 volt, but not all 24 volts were FFRs. All 12 volt Lightweights, though were GS. If your paperwork all matches and the data plate on the bulkhead says it was a GS, then that is what it would have been when it left the factory. But, it doesn't matter, you can do anything you wish with it anyway so if the 24 volt system is complete and working properly, you can stick with it as it is supposed to be a superior system to the standard 12 volt, though parts are more expensive.

[Bob Fell]

Regrettably, it may be that a PO has 'substituted' (I'm being PC) a GS plate to claim 'authenticity' to a vehicle that may have been made up of parts.
To the best of my knowledge, FFR's of that period were FFR's, only in the late 80's did a 24v vehicle appear as a 90 Amper with no FFR equipment and they were RAF vehicles, although I did come across a Sennybridge (SENTA) Range Officer's vehicle that was a 90 Amper in about '93. The key maybe is the chassis number, do you have it? If so Rob should be able to help.
Regards,
Bob

[88lr]

The other very slim possibility is this; It may have been converted in service to a 24 volt 90 amp vehicle (1618-0783). I have come across this before.
Do you have the history card/or a MERLIN report? It would certainly be noted if done, due to the census code changing.

[Bob Fell]

The other very slim possibility is this; It may have been converted in service to a 24 volt 90 amp vehicle (1618-0783). I have come across this before.
Do you have the history card/or a MERLIN report? It would certainly be noted if done, due to the census code changing.

I checked Merlin and nothing showing.

[BYL]

The phrase that comes to mind is "25 Year Historic Vehicle" tax status.

In 1994 I think, Ken Clarke, as chancellor of the exchequer gave me, an impoverished student, a 150 pound gift. Any vehicle more than 25 years old would be tax free. My 1965 Austin A40 Farina Mk11 (wish I still had it) was well in. The snag was that it was not a rolling date and the cut off was 1973. I don't remember which day, 1st Jan or date of the Budget speech or whatever. Dad's MGB V8 from June '73 (do still have it) missed out by a matter of months.

Point being, a not insignificant number of owners (including a PO of 54GF42) would make an effort to own two trucks of the same model, one on each side of the threshold and, as if by magic (and some self tapping screws), guess which chassis number was the one running on the road.

Yours, being officially 1973 seems like it might be the wrong side of the argument but I wonder if it doesn't have an 'date of manufacture' still in 1972, and perhaps taken on strength in '73. Even without that, it is possible that a PO still flannelled the DVLA at the time that it was pre-cut off. Might not be your case at all of course but it does often account for apparent discrepancies in identity for classic vehicles of the early '70s vintage.

I'd suggest a couple of good and rather difficult/not-worth-the-bother-of-changing clues to a factory built FFR would be the hooked hand throttle and adjuster screw on the dash/fire wall to the left of the steering column, the cable tidy pockets on the back of the seat bulk head and any remaining evidence of a proliferation of earthing straps between the various body components, for example under the bonnet, hinge to fire wall and at the front of the rear wheel arch connecting the body tub to the chassis.

The acid test would be if you can see the chassis number stamped on the chassis: outside of the drivers side front dumb iron (possibly under no small quantity of underseal). Do also check the actual nomenclature plates if they are there, the offending PO of 54GF42 didn't even bother changing the contract plate.

Hope that helps.