Series IIA Chassis up rebuild

[andrewjsimpson1977]

yes I like that idea too - maybe we should have a number of mini-meets all connected via Zoom. Andy and I aren't too far away from each other so could meet up, obviously Andy really has to pull his finger out - my motivational comments must really be helping

Nope

[landylees]

Fitted rear lights and reflectors this evening.

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[landylees]

Fitted all the bits to the bonnet, now ready to go in the truck

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[landylees]

No progress this weekend as I have been visiting my mum. Thursday though I fitted the bonnet.

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[landylees]

Fitted the rear tub today, hopefully for the last time. The spacers that I made for the outriggers were the wrong size so I had to make some more. Fitted a new passenger side door lock and now the door latches properly. in the last few days I have also painted and fitted the NATO tow hook that brinv8 kindly hand delivered last week.

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[landylees]

Rear tub fully tightened down.
Rear indicators, tail lamps, stop lights and convoy lights connected and tested.
Leak from clutch master cylinder found and rectified.
Front right side light and indicators connected and tested.
Horn wired up and tested.
Found the issue with the headlight floor switch, now have power at the headlights.
Main beam warning light doesn't illuminate and rotary lighting switch has a couple of dead spots so needs stripping down.
Started sand blasting parts for re-galvanising with my small pot blaster.

[landylees]

Refitted the 6 way rotary switch.
Wired up the head lights and tested, main beam indicator light now works also.
Discovered that whilst I tightened up the unions on the the clutch, I also need to do the same to the brake pipe junction - note to self (not sure why as I won't read it),when you write notes of things like "tighten brake & clutch unions when bulkhead secured" that you should actually read it and then do it! I suppose the same applies to the "tighten front gearbox output shaft nut" as this might explain why EP90 is leaking from behind the prop shaft.

[andrewjsimpson1977]

Good progress matey... looking forward to seeing some sandblasting pics!

[landylees]

Good progress matey... looking forward to seeing some sandblasting pics!

I don't really enjoy my sand blaster, it is such a faff. It works really well for about an hour and then repeatedly gets clogged up. I have lowered the pressure to the recommended psi, renewed the media, cleaned out the mixing valve (many many times), different air hoses, added water traps which never catch any water, but it seems moisture still gets in the media and clogs it up after about an hour of use.

I may have got to the bottom of this, but don't yet have a solution. The compressor gets worked harder when using the sand blaster and after an hour of use the air receiver is actually quite hot. Hot air is able to contain more moisture and this condenses out when the pressure drops in the sand blaster (and because the sand blasting pot is cold and outside), since reduction in pressure causes cooling. I don't really understand why it doesn't condense out in the water traps. The only "solution" I can think of is to run the air pipe through a water trough to cool the pipe and hopefully the air, so the water condenses out and gets caught in the water trap.

Any ideas ?

[Sidders101]

I have the same problem Howard..less so since i converted from kiln dry sand to aluminium oxide..it works fine on a hot dry day...also helps to run the compressor for a few seconds then open the bottom valve to expel any water which collects in the tank.. sure you know this.....i was having huge issues recently until i discovered a rogue rivet ball had gone up the pipe and was semi blocking the gun.Also i found running the comp as full power works better for me & not drowning the inlet pipe with too much media.The damp atmosphere doesn't help...if the media is cold/damp then u are are fighting a losing battle.
The motor is looking excellent mate..keep the faith.