19FM37

[Bigdon1981]

Me too, the chap I use is very good, decent price too.

I think that’s all the welding done, other than fitting a tube for the NATO socket in the rear crossmember when I’ve found a socket and lid for a decent price.

Saved myself £90 as I found the correct washer bottle and pump in the shed, knew I had one but couldn’t remember if it had been chucked out in a clear out, had to jb weld a new bit of pipe to the pump and the bottle looks like it’s been in a fire but it’s correct lol.

Cheers

[Bigdon1981]

Tinkering waiting for paint on the last tub bits to go off today, got to do the inside faces but nearly ready to start putting it all back together.
Wired up the rear lights, not tested but they worked before ( famous last words I know) Now done with correct bullets not multi plugs.
Fitted the new reflectors, eyes peeled for white ones still.
Drilled the holes and fitted the lifting eyes, chassis was missing the holes along with towing electrics
Fitted the bumperettes, they are bent and buckled but with the price of new ones they will do!

Few coats of black gloss on the heater, I may even plumb it in for the first time in 20 years it will have 2 speeds again for the first time in years.

Does anyone know the correct bolt size for the NATO hitch? Local place is getting bad for bolts and had to make do for the lifting eyes
Cheers

[Bigdon1981]

Have worked out that I’ve got to move the bulkhead 5mm forward on the near side (needs to go around that sideways too ) but can’t move it due to the exhaust manifold, think I’m going to have fun with the doors, they didn’t fit well before

[removeduser185]

That is looking really good. As for the doors, I don't think they fitted that well when new!

[Bigdon1981]

Hi all,
Started on the seat belt mounts today before fitting the last bits of the tub, 2 hours messing about lol!
I’m putting rubber between the tub and the mounts so none of it wants to line up right which is why only one is finished

Grille/ rad panel has had its first coat of green along with an under bonnet tool box ( I know it wouldn’t have had one but it’s useful)

Pic of a possible location for the fuel pump, can anyone see any issues if I mount it there, will be at the top of the outrigger.

The load bed portion of the seat belts, did they have a bit of Ali covering the big hole on the series 3s? Does anyone know the part number for the spacers on the centre mounts or a drawing?

Cheers

[AR4412]

Pic of a possible location for the fuel pump, can anyone see any issues if I mount it there, will be at the top of the outrigger.

There is the possibility of impact damage to the pump or fuel lines from stones/debris thrown up by the front tyre if you mount your fuel pump there, as it will be right in the firing line. I'm not saying where I have mounted mine is the best place, but I have mounted mine inside the chassis rail on a bracket fixed to the handbrake lever mounting bolts.
.

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The load bed portion of the seat belts, did they have a bit of Ali covering the big hole on the series 3s? Does anyone know the part number for the spacers on the centre mounts or a drawing?

Can you show a pic of the holes you are refering too?

The U shaped shims between the chassis and tub at the seatbelt mounts are Part No 346056.

Regards,

[Bigdon1981]

Didn’t think of putting it there Hopefully enough clearance to the battery box, as I’m going to use the 24v battery tray and cover, will it offend people if I put a USB port in the front?

Looks like the spacers I need , cheers, shame blanchards have no stock, I might make a few or put some big washers underneath for the time being and see if any come into stock,
Is there anything that goes on the upper side of the tub as “ trim” to cover the hole? I know the series 2 has a similar bracket to by the doors but the series 3 has 1 hole ( quite big on mine as I copied the wrong tub bit

Cheers

[AR4412]

will it offend people if I put a USB port in the front?

The rivet counters will be blowing gaskets mate.

You could cut a segment out of large 'repair' washers to replicate the spacer, or make some up out of sheet metal/plastic.

Is there anything that goes on the upper side of the tub as “ trim” to cover the hole? I know the series 2 has a similar bracket to by the doors but the series 3 has 1 hole ( quite big on mine as I copied the wrong tub bit

Do you mean covers for the seatbelt stalk holes, as circled in the pic?

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I ask as looking back at your tub pics, the holes in yours do seem a little on the large size. There's nothing used originally on the Lightweight, but you may be able to use a suitable wiring grommet to close of the hole and still allow the seatbelt stalk bolt to pass through.

Regards,

[Bigdon1981]

Cheers, I went with the bigger holes in the crossmember as I’m still not certain on how straight the chassis is, will give me some wiggle room, going to have around 4mm of spacers on each side. Doesn’t help the replacement tub bits are thicker aluminium and no guarantee that the bits that were copied were right so puts most of it a mm out or so before I start. I’ll cut a square and put a hole in it and paint to hide the wiggle room

[AR4412]

I went with having the holes in the replacement panel made the same size as the original, figuring I could always jemmy the tub around, or remove metal to make things fit.

Regards,