Stu's Tdi project

[StuWright]

Well this week was seat base time which started with using Nitro Mors to strip off multiple layers of paint. Once I got to the metal I could see the full extent of the work.
Previous owners had used body filler on the end panels to hide holes, filled all the corners with sealer and there were 4 different patches hiding more corrosion.
Under the seats I have nothing original and the whole lot needs stripping off. Seems like someone decided to convert the base to take series seat base runners by removing the top hat style strengtheners and the lids. What they replaced it with was homemade tiny hinged lids and non stainless steel straight bars as strengheners. The back angle bar is badly out of shape with loads of extra holes.

Sadly at best the only bit that may be salvageable is the front panel, although even that has 15 extra drill holes not required and a large one from a previous overdrive.
Normally 5 hours work is a bit more rewarding.

On a better note I did get 2 new lids delivered and finally my vents & seals, so it's onwards and upwards to try to finish it this Summer.

[Del]

Newbury Sortout is only a few weeks away. You might get lucky and find a seat base there.

[StuWright]

Newbury Sortout is only a few weeks away. You might get lucky and find a seat base there.

Good idea Del, thanks.

[StuWright]

Today we got the gearbox back together and had to struggle like hell with fitting the transfer casing. There are 3 shafts/spindles to line up as well as making sure the gears matched. It just didn't seem to want to do and it didn't help having the bell housing attached which touched the end of the shaft.
Not sure if it was right but I slacked off the nut on the front and after a bit a a wiggle/shove and in it went.

Also stripped the gearstick base, degreased and swapped the gearstick for a better one off a standard series vehicle. After wire brushing the case I just need to get the gearstick powder coated down to the ball part.

Bought a gearbox tunnel off eBay and negotiating on a pos seat box if it's really good.

[StuWright]

I'm just trying to load some pictures.

These are some previous ones of my rebuild gearbox after 200 miles driving and then 4 years of water damage without knowing. All caused by an inspection plate having been put on with sealer with a 10mm gap at the top edge (not by me lol).

image.jpeg (797.98 KiB) Viewed 2766 times

[StuWright]

image.jpeg (832.12 KiB) Viewed 2766 times

More rust

[StuWright]

Amazing what some plain water can do to a perfect gearbox.

[StuWright]

I had a lot more but most were too big and I haven't worked out how to resize on photo bucket yet.

[landyseb]

Hi Stu, Quick Tip.... In the 3rd pic showing main gearbox case, please make sure the bearing/seal housing is a good and tight fit in the casting. If you have to remove it for any reason be sure to that the correct locktite compound is applied to it before refitting and that it is a tight press fit in the casing. If not it will allow all your mainbox oil to migrate into the transfer box and destroy the mainbox gears and spacers. In the last year i have had to repair 2 gearboxes for customers that had been reconditioned by a reputable specialist (who shall remain nameless) less than 20k miles before..

Cheers Adam

[StuWright]

Hi Stu, Quick Tip.... In the 3rd pic showing main gearbox case, please make sure the bearing/seal housing is a good and tight fit in the casting. If you have to remove it for any reason be sure to that the correct locktite compound is applied to it before refitting and that it is a tight press fit in the casing. If not it will allow all your mainbox oil to migrate into the transfer box and destroy the mainbox gears and spacers. In the last year i have had to repair 2 gearboxes for customers that had been reconditioned by a reputable specialist (who shall remain nameless) less than 20k miles before..

Cheers Adam

Yes it was really tight Adam, but great tip that I would not have thought of. I will make sure I keep a careful eye on the levels.