Advice on removing rear floor

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Bob Fell
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Bob Fell » Fri Jan 19, 2018 5:56 pm

BYL wrote:
Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:15 pm
Do I understand correctly from the picture that you still have the removable side panels attached? If so I highly recommend whipping them off while you're going to town on the tub. The bolt heads you can see holding them to the tub go into kept nuts which are welded to steel plates that are riveted to the tub. You get the same corrosion issue you already have with the load staples.

For reassembly I'm a firm believer in Shell Ensis fluid. Both steel and ally components gets primer and top coat and then a coating of Ensis between where the two come in contact with each other. I'm pulling bits off my heavyweight that got that treatment 20 years ago and they are corrosion free.
Hugo,

Which grade of Ensis are you talking about, PG80?
This stuff is mega expensive and difficult to obtain I believe.

Regards
Bob
042Bobf


19HF27 Lightweight FFR ex Gurkha Field Force HQ, various Gurkha Sigs Tps and Comp Ord Depot Hong Kong 1980-1997.
42ET39 Narrow Track Sankey ex BAOR 22 & 7 Sig Regts, 16/5 Lancers, 2 RTR, 9/12 Lancers & QDG 1969-2001.

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BYL
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by BYL » Sat Jan 20, 2018 10:15 pm

Foz, your side panels look a lot healthier than what I was last working with. When you ask about the hard to find bits you remind me, and this might be what you've read about, on that same surface of the tub, you have the alternate securing eye for the seat belt shoulder strap. The bit you can see, if you've still got them, is the eye bolt, which takes the seat belt D shackle pin. It is a threaded bolt, IIRC 5/16" UNF. The bolt screws into a rectangular bit of threaded block. The block is held/welded to a piece of square 'u' section steel sheet. That 'u' section is held to the under side of the tub with, I think, 2 rivets each side of the bolt. To be honest, I've never seen enough of an original to know what it should look like. The u section steel rusts away and you get the galvanic corrosion to the tub. I removed them by drilling the 4 rivets out then a lump of steel and aluminum oxides just fell to the floor. Heat from the blow torch persuaded the bolt to unscrew from the block and both were reusable. The steel u section is easy to remanufacture. Obviously, if you plan on using them as actual seat belt anchorages again, for some stripped down motoring, then the repairs to the tub need to be substantial. If you don't ever plan running without the rear sides you could just leave them off and fill up the holes. My mental imbalance around the subject of originality won't let me do that to mine.
Hugo.

54GF42 S3 GS
43GF59 S3 FFR
61KB78 S3 109' FFR
BYL S2A 88' RAE Farnborough runway hack

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Fred
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Fred » Sat Jan 20, 2018 10:31 pm

The lower seatbelt mounts are exactly as Hugo says - they're 1" channel. Mine were also completely rusted out, so I made a new pair out of 1" square tube from the legs of an old garden chair. They're at the top in this photo.
Some finished bits Aug 17.jpg
Some finished bits Aug 17.jpg (476.36 KiB) Viewed 279 times
Fred
Best,
Fred

1979 Series 3 GS, 23HF14

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AR4412
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by AR4412 » Sun Jan 21, 2018 2:12 pm

Here's a couple of pics of a pair of NOS ones, bought before the prices for them went silly.
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Rubbed down, painted and eyebolts loosely fitted to stop the pixies stealing them.
SAM_2034.JPG
SAM_2034.JPG (54.71 KiB) Viewed 270 times
The old ones they replaced.
SAM_1393.JPG
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SAM_1395.JPG
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As Fred mentioned, they are easy enough to manufacture, which was my plan until I stumbled across some new ones.

Regards,
For Those That Have Had To Fight for It, Life Has Truly A Flavour The Protected Will Never Know.

THEIR NAME LIVETH FOR EVERMORE.

Neil.

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Foz31
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Foz31 » Sun Jan 21, 2018 3:59 pm

Thanks chaps - impressive improvisation of garden furniture Fred. Did Mrs Fred curse when she sat down in the garden and rolled over backwards? All noted and logged for when I retire and my spare time far exceeds my ability...right now they're fairly well matched ;)

Original plan was to just replace floor and cross members...couldn't ignore the corroded staple mounts and I've taken the opportunity to paint the exposed rear chassis, but I'm keen to get her roadworthy once more and out on muddy byways.

I stupidly didn't photo or note the disassembly: can someone please remind me where these go? Permission to tut repeatedly to yourself as you type:
Attachments
IMG_3703.JPG
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25HF03 Series III 200Tdi

andrewjsimpson1977
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by andrewjsimpson1977 » Sun Jan 21, 2018 5:56 pm

Fred wrote:
Sat Jan 20, 2018 10:31 pm
The lower seatbelt mounts are exactly as Hugo says - they're 1" channel. Mine were also completely rusted out, so I made a new pair out of 1" square tube from the legs of an old garden chair. They're at the top in this photo.
Some finished bits Aug 17.jpg
Fred
Cor! Look at that fan!

:D

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Fred
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Fred » Sun Jan 21, 2018 6:08 pm

AR4412 wrote:
Sun Jan 21, 2018 2:12 pm
Here's a couple of pics of a pair of NOS ones, bought before the prices for them went silly.
If you can actually find them anywhere.
Foz31 wrote:
Sun Jan 21, 2018 3:59 pm
please remind me where these go?
They go under each of the tie-down staples. Secured to the underside of the tub with a pop rivet in the hole at each end then the captive nut is for bolting the staple to.
andrewjsimpson1977 wrote:
Sun Jan 21, 2018 5:56 pm

Cor! Look at that fan!

:D
I'm hoping it'll be fitted in the next few days. I have just put the first coat of topcoat on the engine over the silver undercoat and painted the engine mountings black. I have made up Clive's stencil set to read "PRESERVED..." etc, dug out the new heater tap (the old one was leaking) bought a packet of 10 16mm ID copper crush washers and discovered today that, while they're fine for the drain taps, I need a 14mm one for the oil cooler return pipe - so no doubt that will be 23p, +£5 P&P + VAT as usual! Also put topcoat on the 4WD transmission cover bracket.

Cold in the garage, so the paint isn't very fast going off and the engine, because the paint is wet, is not supported by the crane, simply sitting on the table, so I hope it stays there!

Fred
Best,
Fred

1979 Series 3 GS, 23HF14

andrewjsimpson1977
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by andrewjsimpson1977 » Sun Jan 21, 2018 7:24 pm

All good progress though, and certainly better than I have managed this week.

You have reminded me and I should have said earlier - I have a massive stash of dowty washers for the tappet guide retaining bolts if you'd like a set? They are recommended by Turners as a replacement for the copper crush washers which (for the tappet guides application at least) can tend to harden and leak after a while. Mine are the metric equivalent as I found it hard to get the correct imperial size, but the fit is perfect.

Keep on keepin' on,

All the best,

Andy

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BYL
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by BYL » Mon Jan 22, 2018 8:14 am

This is what I got out of 54GF42.
P_20160508_200859.jpg
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Bob, I'm afraid I've not come across the code PG80 with respect to Ensis. The stuff I'm using is what they call(ed) TX, which is the thicker stuff that looks a lot like waxoyl. T'interweb seems to suggest that there are at least two different ways to refer to types of Ensis fluid, I don't know which is more current.

There are different 'grades' and it depends really on how you plan to apply it. The thin stuff (PX) can be sprayed (with suitable breathing protection) and is great for steel box sections such as we find on our chassis, if they've not been galvanized. It is thin enough that it 'capillaries' around spot welds before it goes off. Dad did the inside of his MGB sills with it in 1977 and I think it must be one of very few MGBs that still has it's original sills. The thick stuff (TX) is great for brush application, such as these cases where we are bolting steel components to aluminium panels.

Getting hold of the stuff is another challenge. Once you have found a Shell authorised dealer the next challenge is often to persuade them that this product exists, and then persuade them that they can provide it in a 5 litre can, not just the 20l industrial drum. Even then they might be selective in what grades they can offer you. Dad and I have had mixed responses from, 'never heard of it and can't be bothered', through to 'no problem at all'.

The other thing is that you don't exactly use it up at a high rate, I'd say that I use about 1 liter per vehicle per decade. Dad and I go halves on a tin when the need arises.

Bob, you are right, it is not exactly cheap to purchase, you have to be very long term about the cost benefits. The pay-off really comes when you have to change a head-light and all of those crappy little cross head screws that hold the retaining ring, which you haven't touched in ten years, unscrew without complaint.
Hugo.

54GF42 S3 GS
43GF59 S3 FFR
61KB78 S3 109' FFR
BYL S2A 88' RAE Farnborough runway hack

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Bob Fell
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Bob Fell » Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:41 pm

Hi Hugo,
Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.
PG80 is the MOD lubricant code, supplied under DEF STAN 80-217/1.
The TX does not seem to be available in the UK but SX is.
Both are available in industrial quantities, 20ltr drum as you say, from Southern Lubricants at a massive price. Nothing in 5ltr tins that I can find.
Regards
Bob
042Bobf


19HF27 Lightweight FFR ex Gurkha Field Force HQ, various Gurkha Sigs Tps and Comp Ord Depot Hong Kong 1980-1997.
42ET39 Narrow Track Sankey ex BAOR 22 & 7 Sig Regts, 16/5 Lancers, 2 RTR, 9/12 Lancers & QDG 1969-2001.

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