Advice on removing rear floor

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Foz31
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Foz31 » Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:13 pm

I finally got the floor off...thanks for all the advice. The paint scraper helped a lot - just tricky getting access from underneath. I ended up tapping a tapered piece of 2x1 along each join line from the back...it broke the welds without digging into the ally.

The lips of the tub sides are pretty ragged, but hopefully enough to get a good tight join with the new floor (not that it will be going in until I've replaced those shot cross members and repainted the tub).

Progress of sorts 😊
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25HF03 Series III 200Tdi

Foz31
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Foz31 » Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:17 pm

And yes, my fuel tank's weeping :?
25HF03 Series III 200Tdi

Landie68
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Landie68 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 10:19 am

Looks to be about the normal mess under the tub floor. Lovely rotten cross support floor members. Pity about the weeping fuel tank, but better found now than later.
Regards
Richard

Discovery Sport
15FM83 ex 15 Para and 7 PO's

Foz31
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Foz31 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 10:15 pm

Indeed Richard...another job added to the list!

Not sure how to sequence text then photos so there'll probably be a bunch of piccies all at the end:

Got this messy damage in the tub on the RHS near the rear, and also the stowage eye is practically floating in mid air due to metal corrosion...will need to fashion some riveted patches here, but would welcome any advice/suggestions...

There's a hole in the chassis...should I at least have a blanking plug in here?

And when I re-assemble:
-there cross members just sit on the rubber pads on top of the chassis?
-rivets go through the floor, tub side "lip", then cross member?
-for a good watertight seal, do I use Tiger seal round all 4 edges...or something else on the sides and front?

Thanks as always for your sage advice!
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Fred
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Fred » Mon Jan 15, 2018 10:38 pm

Foz31 wrote:
Mon Jan 15, 2018 10:15 pm
will need to fashion some riveted patches here, but would welcome any advice/suggestions...

you'll also find the tub will have corroded behind the seatbelt mounts both at the front and in the tops of the lower tub sides. When I was putting mine back together I painted the surfaces with epoxy resin (from a glassfibre kit) to give some insulation between the steel and the Birmabright in the hope it will delay the galvanic corrosion - we'll see!

There's a hole in the chassis...should I at least have a blanking plug in here?

You ought to have the wiring loom coming through the chassis from the front (just in front of the toe-board by the PDWA valve). It then comes out here to reach the rear lights etc. Probably, when the rear crossmember was replaced by a PO, he took it out and ran it along the outside instead. So, yes,
you can simply blank it off if you aren't going to use it.


And when I re-assemble:
-the cross members just sit on the rubber pads on top of the chassis?

Yes, and probably neither squarely nor fully!

-rivets go through the floor, tub side "lip", then cross member?

Yep.

-for a good watertight seal, do I use Tiger seal round all 4 edges...or something else on the sides and front?

If you're certain you'll never want to separate it again then you can use Tiger Seal, though I found that it wasn't strong enough to hold the seam along the tailboard edge - it sprung, so I had to add a couple of rivets (new, of course, it's spot-welded)

Thanks as always for your sage advice!
Fred - comments in your original text above
Best,
Fred

1979 Series 3 GS, 23HF14

Landie68
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Landie68 » Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:26 pm

Oh dear, that looks a horrible mess at the moment.

Rub pads sit on the chassis: Correct
Rivets through cross members side lip and floor: Correct (well they did on mine)
Water Tight seal: I used plenty of tiger seal all round and then riveted, then trimmed back the excess tiger seal about 3 weeks later

As for the rest, my suggestion is make it up as you go along with the tub panel repairs. I used builders DPM between metal and Birmabright to avoid (hopefully) any further corrosion.

No doubt they will be better advice in due course from the more experienced experts on here.

Look forward to catching up on your running repairs when I return.
Regards
Richard

Discovery Sport
15FM83 ex 15 Para and 7 PO's

Foz31
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Foz31 » Tue Jan 16, 2018 9:58 pm

Thanks Fred, Richard. Realized that the messy puncture hole on the right tub side at the back is almost certainly the tail gate chain mounting being unceremoniously ripped out through abuse at some point.

Took out the stowage staples (? not good on the right terminology), and the worst has a fairly large hole (photo below)...planning on patching both...any tips on the appropriate alluminium sheeting to use? And a good source? Only need a square foot or so. Did a bit of surfing - is it 5251 alluminium alloy I need? 1 mm thick?

As always, thanks
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BYL
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by BYL » Thu Jan 18, 2018 10:15 pm

Do I understand correctly from the picture that you still have the removable side panels attached? If so I highly recommend whipping them off while you're going to town on the tub. The bolt heads you can see holding them to the tub go into kept nuts which are welded to steel plates that are riveted to the tub. You get the same corrosion issue you already have with the load staples.

For reassembly I'm a firm believer in Shell Ensis fluid. Both steel and ally components gets primer and top coat and then a coating of Ensis between where the two come in contact with each other. I'm pulling bits off my heavyweight that got that treatment 20 years ago and they are corrosion free.
Hugo.

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Foz31
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Foz31 » Fri Jan 19, 2018 10:49 am

Thanks Hugo. I wasn't planning on further removal - I planned on replacing just the floor and the cross members - but I'll heed your advice. Best time to inspect/repair/prevent further corrosion of known vulnerable areas. Given the visible corrosion I already know about, am I better off replacing the sides? Are these the items that are tough to source that I read about in other posts?

I really appreciate everyone's patient advice - compared to most who are active on this forum who are "Premier League" full-on restorers who know what they're doing, I'm the guy the pub team asks to go in goal coz they're short on numbers :shock: I'm so pleased to finally own the vehicle I've always wanted since I was a kid, and enjoying the steep learning curve of keeping it on the road.
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Jiml
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Re: Advice on removing rear floor

Post by Jiml » Fri Jan 19, 2018 12:12 pm

Hi all Just been looking back through this thread and have a comment to make. Never use a cutting disc to grind off rivets. you can get a proper grinding disc for that job, if a cutting/slitting disc is mis-used in this way it could shatter. The disc breaks up at around 210 mph, you don't want to be near that if it happens, you may discover that adrenalin is brown and lumpy. I train abrasive wheel courses and know a bit about it :D
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