clutch

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alz
Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:35 pm
Location: Aberdeenshire

clutch

Post by alz » Mon May 14, 2018 11:37 am

Clutch going. Is it possible to replace clutch on a Lightweight without taking out the seat base, and hassle of disconnecting changeover fuel tap lines etc?

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Trickyh
Posts: 148
Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2017 1:17 pm
Location: Reading, Berks

Re: clutch

Post by Trickyh » Mon May 14, 2018 11:43 am

Never done it myself, but I guess it depends if you have a removable crossmember or not to allow you to drop the gear/transfer box down from underneath. My one has one, but it is on an aftermarket Richards chassis...

alz
Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:35 pm
Location: Aberdeenshire

Re: clutch

Post by alz » Mon May 14, 2018 11:58 am

Speaking to brother down south, he thought it should be possible to change clutch by jacking the gearbox and sliding it back.
But I can't see that this would give enough access and room to work?

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BYL
Posts: 61
Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2015 2:02 pm
Location: Prague

Re: clutch

Post by BYL » Tue May 15, 2018 9:14 pm

Yes, it can be done, I did it like that on my heavyweight.

I had grand designs of balancing the box on a trolley jack and gently and elegantly rolling the whole thing back. Doesn't work like that. The balance point of the box is somewhere between the main box and transfer box. There is nothing remotely flat around there that the jack would locate to and as soon as you start to go backwards the crossmember is in the way.

My solution: Disconnect prop shafts and hand brake and Speedo cable. Trolley jack, aligned fore and aft, coming in from the front, so the jack handle is under the sump. Jack up under the main box bell housing as far forward as possible. Bottle jack under the rear, I think there is a handy spot just forward of the hand brake drum back plate. Remove the two mounting rubbers from the cross member. Put two laths of wood, half inch by inch or more by roughly a foot running fore-aft between the gearbox and the crossmember. These will act as slide rails. Now you can undo the bell housing nuts. The bottle jack stops the back of the box sagging and damaging the studs. Now the fun part. On your back, under the box, do your strongest man impression and manipulate the box backward. Go only parts of an inch at a time. Manipulatethe box not the jacks. As you go back the jacks should get pulled along by the box. The trolley jack is easy, it's on wheels. The bottle jack you'll need to reposition as it goes. Once you are clear of the bell housing studs it will want to pivot because the transfer box is the heavy side. You can let it twist and rest on one of your wooden strips on the crossmember. Take care the bottle jack doesn't slip as it moves. Keep going back till the first motion shaft clear the clutch cover assembly then you can lower the box so it rests on the crossmember and trolley jack. It should go about 5 inches back which is enough to get spanners on the cover plate.

In the immortal words, re-fitment is the reverse of disassembly. ;) Only with more shouting. And the mounting rubbers never go back in without a fight.

I learnt this thanks to having to remove my box 3 times in as many months th and to a new cover plate that came in a blue box. The factory hadn't peened over the lock ring that holds the nuts in place that allow adjustment of sprung plate. If you are fitting new, do just check the locking collars are pinged over. Otherwise they listen themselves fairly quickly.
Hugo.

54GF42 S3 GS
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61KB78 S3 109' FFR
BYL S2A 88' RAE Farnborough runway hack

alz
Posts: 58
Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:35 pm
Location: Aberdeenshire

Re: clutch

Post by alz » Wed May 16, 2018 12:42 pm

Excellent, Hugo. Many thanks for such detailed info. Really useful and appreciated.
A "heavyweight" sounds great! Do you mean that you owner one of those Big Lightweights I remember seeing pics of?

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